At this point we are assuming you have followed the first half of the guide and have just removed the oil filter from it’s housing. Pop it down somewhere where it won’t damage anything with it’s mess and look inside the housing:
At the back is an O-ring. Pry it off gently with a pick or similar tool, being careful not to damage either the O-ring or surrounding metal:
Roll it between your fingers – if it doesn’t feel perfectly round you should replace it, and apply fresh engine oil to the new O-ring before installation. It’s part number 09280-13004 and is 13.5×1.5mm.
While we are on the topic of O-rings, there’s another one to look at – the O-ring inside the oil filter cover. This O-ring is probably stuck to the block rather than the oil filter cover:
This one should also be easily rolled between your fingers, and should feel round with no edges. It’s part number 09280-54001 and is 25.7mm x 3.5mm. Replace it if it isn’t still round and soft or if your new filter came with one – no harm in having a newer O-ring in there! If you are replacing it make sure you apply fresh engine oil to the O-ring before installing it.
The used filter – HF-131 in this case (see oil filter choices):
This end fits into the spring:
Speaking of the spring, you should find it on the inside of the oil filter cover (cover part number 16512HG510003S):
It comes off fairly easily – so don’t lose it, and make sure that it goes back in the engine or else you won’t have effective oil filtration. It’s part number 09440-18002 in case you need a new one.
Grab a new oil filter (see oil filter choices) – we are using OEM, part number 16510H05240:
This end faces outwards:
…and the end with the hole in it faces into the engine:
Like many oil filter designs, it’s a perforated drum with paper around the outside.
Installed, along with a new O-ring (don’t forget to oil it):
Install the cover over it:
At this point you may wish to check the oil pump screen – there’s an article on that over here. Otherwise, reinstall the oil drain bolt and tighten it to 18-20Nm (1.8-2.0kg/m):
Grab some more oil – we are using Penrite 10w40 that’s JASO rated and above SG spec, though 10w30 would also be within spec:
Grab something to measure with:
The engine should take 1,500ml if you have done an oil filter change or 1,450ml if you haven’t done the filter (why haven’t you done the filter?). Don’t pour the lot in at once if you aren’t used to this process – start off at 1L and slowly increase it by 100mls, checking the oil after each step to see how close you are getting to the full mark. The ideal point is about 1mm below the full mark. When you’re a little below that point start the motor and let it idle for a few minutes then turn it off and wait ~3 minutes then check the oil level, topping up further if necessary.
Replace the filler cap. Voila, you’re done! Take the bike for a test run paying careful attention to any strange noises – and if the oil light comes on when it shouldn’t stop the motor immediately – then stop and let the bike sit for a few minutes before checking the oil level. If you did everything right all should be good and you have successfully changed your oil!