Before using this site please read the site disclaimer. Also please note that any links provided may be part of an affiliate programme (viz. eBay, Amazon) which helps support the site as I will earn a commission when visitors make a qualifying purchase.
To do this you will need:
First off, very slightly loosen the cap at the top of the forks (part number 51455-KY1-003) with a 17mm hex tool:
You only want to make sure the cap turns slightly; at this stage you don't want to remove the cap as it's under spring pressure and will make the rest of the process difficult. It is, however, difficult to remove it after the fork has been removed unless you put it in a vise so you might as well crack it loose now.
Secure the rear of the bike with a paddock stand and raise the front end of the bike so that the front wheel is off the ground. You may be able to use a headstock stand, remove the exhaust headers and jack up the bottom of the bike, use a ratchet strap from a rafter or some other creative method. Just make sure that it's done safely and securely - you really don't want the bike falling on you or anything else, really. We went with the rafter-strap-rear-paddock-stand option.
Remove the stopper ring that sits above the clip-on handlebars (part number 90602-KM9-000), one per side:
Now remove the two bolts on the brake caliper bracket and hang the brake caliper securely - not from the brake line!
Remove the bolt on the right hand side of the front axle:
It takes a 24mm socket:
Now there are four pinch bolts to remove (8x45mm, 96500-08045-07 on CBR250RJ); two on the bottom of each fork leg;
It's a 12mm socket to remove them:
Now you can remove the axle by putting a small screwdriver through the holes in the left end of the axle and twisting/pulling the axle towards the left of the bike. The wheel will drop away - it sometimes helps to support the weight of the wheel while you're removing the axle.
If the spacer on the right hand side falls out - it sits between the right fork and the wheel and the axle passes through it - it is orientated this way (held out of the normal line to show which end goes where):
The speedo drive sits between the wheel and the fork (on a MC19, anyhow) on the other side and it's fairly straightforward to see which side mates to the wheel there.
Now crack loose the bolt at the very bottom of the fork, one per side - there's fork oil behind these so you don't want to undo them yet or you'll have a huge smelly mess. The bolt goes into the damper rod at the bottom of the inside, though, and without the spring pressure the bolt will just turn without loosening... so save yourself some trouble later and loosen it slightly now. 8mm thread, part number 90116-KV3-701 with an 8mm copper washer 90544-283-000). View from below:
It takes a 6mm hex long socket:
Now remove the four bolts holding in the front fender and fork brace; if you removed the brake caliper you probably already got one already:
They take an 8mm socket.
Now loosen the bolt that holds the clip-on handlebars to the fork legs:
The left hand side will probably lift free easily though you may have some difficulty lifting the right hand side off without loosening the brake master cylinder.
Now loosen the front triple tree bolt, one side:
Then loosen the lower triple tree bolt on the same side:
The fork leg should be able to be slid down through the trees now. In the (likeyl?) even that it's a bit stuck in place you can gently tap it down with a rubber mallet or similar:
Now you should have a pair of forks to service - left side is part number 51500-KY1-003ZA, right side 51400-KY1-003ZA:
In 2019 the server has had to double in capacity to support the growing site... please consider dropping the site a donation to help cover the costs! Check out our Patreon for support options, buy a shirt, buy our apps, use my NordVPN affiliate link to sign up to their service or donate via Paypal:
|Paypal $5 link ->>|
|Paypal $10 link ->>|