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Need to replace the oil pressure switch in your Toyota 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine? This is commonly found in cars like the Toyota Corolla, Auris, Allion, Yaris, Matrix (or Pontiac Vibe), Scion XD and even apparently a Lotus Elise.
You will require:
As far as the adhesive goes, Toyota's Tech Tip T-TT-0060-10 refers to Loctite 242 being equivalent to the factory-recommended 1333; Loctite 243 is apparently an upgraded version of 242 (better oil tolerance, as per Henkel) and was available locally so we went with that. If in doubt, do your own research!
If you want some pointers on jacking the car up to access beneath it, see the oil change article.
The switch is easily accessed from underneath the motor or from the right wheel well; here's the view from below - oil filter lower right, crankshaft position sensor in black above it - and the oil pressure switch hidden just beyond:
View from the front right wheel well:
Depress the tab so you can separate the connection:
View from the right wheel well:
Clean the area around the switch well before removing it - degreaser or brake cleaner will both do a good job. You don't want grit or junk on the back of the motor falling into the oil galleries. From here you can use a 24mm deep socket or a 24mm spanner to loosen the switch:
Switch, removed:
We didn't get any oil falling from the hole; YMMV. I wouldn't do it over your face just in case...
This probably goes without saying but at this point do not start the engine until you have reinstalled the new switch.
Gather your things for the next step - torque wrench, socket for installation, Loctite 243 and new oil pressure sender.
Apply the Loctite - Toyota recommend installing the switch within 3 minutes of applying the adhesive, though that may be something specific to the 1344 variant:
Install the switch using the 24mm deep socket - usually you can get it in a lot of the way turning the socket by hand, then tighten it with your torque wrench to 15Nm. We found that the 3/8" drive torque wrench was too large for the available space and a 6-sided socket but a 1/4" drive torque wrench was a good fit. Don't run your hand into the exhaust manifold if it's still hot.
This particular Tridon pressure switch came with a plastic collar that has to be installed after torquing as it interferes with the socket fit otherwise:
Reconnect the wiring harness - note that the angle that it connects may be different to how it came off due to the sensor being rotated to a different point:
At this point I like to run the engine to verify that there's no leaks while you still have it up on stands:
And done. The adhesive used takes 24 hours to fully cure and Toyota's documentation state that you should leave the recommended 1344 adhesive for at least one hour before starting the motor.
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